For New York Fashion Week Men’s, it is very easy to get caught up in the clothing and miss out on the accessories. That is why it is special when a presentation is solely dedicated to devoting some time to these often-overshadowed pieces. Once such presentation was the inaugural men’s shoe line from Paul Andrew.
Paul Andrew launched his luxury line of women’s shoes in spring of 2013. Prior to launching his own line, Andrew worked for famed design houses such as Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Alexander McQueen and Narciso Rodriquez. As a rising star in the world of shoe design, Andrew received numbers awards such as the top honor from the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fun. It was against this backdrop that he went own to start the men’s collection.
Andrew’s men’s shoes combine old world craftsmanship with a modern sensibility. Dress shoes are crafted using Blake construction with thick lug soles giving men a lot of options for wear. These shoes will work equally well with a nicely tailored suit as with a pair of jeans. The designer utilizes this same thinking in designing his first men’s shoe collection.
Andrew noticed how men are wearing shoes and wanted to dispel the notion of what shoes have to be worn with certain occasions. Sneakers in midnight blue jacquard print would be ideal paired with a tuxedo while evening shoes with the thicker soles would not necessarily have to be worn exclusively for formal affairs.
At first glance colors seem like deep shades of browns and blacks but upon closer inspection the color palette is more nuanced. For Fall/Winter 2016 Andrew uses a variety of shades including black, midnight blue, cordovan, espresso, camel and grey. Polished to a glossy shine, these babies are more like jewels for the feet.
Paul Andrew’s attention to detail to produce a high quality men’s line not only includes his thoughtful modern design aesthetic and nuanced color palette but it also extends to the premium materials used in the fabrication. For this collection, he used buffalo grain leather from Norway, textured scotch grain, Italian silk velvet and high shine exotics.
For his first show, Andrew proved that he is no beginner and produced a strong collection that rivals his women’s line. Standouts included the Castor Loafer and the Alastor Lace-up Brogue both in cordovan Spazzolato calf. In addition, the high-tops in the midnight blue jacquard print were also clear winners. According to Andrew, “You can’t fake a good pair of shoes or a good haircut,” and from the looks of his first collection, these shoes are no fakes.